Timelapse and slow motion have always caught my eye because of the beautiy of the manipulation of time. Recently, I came across what is called a Hyperlapse. Instead of keeping the camera stationary, the camera is moved over whatever distance the operator chooses.
Thanks to Rob Nelson at UntamedScience.com, I was able to learn the technique and try out the hyperlapse for myself. You can view the tutorial he put together here.
My 1st try was a disaster. I was moving my camera down a street and saw something that caught my eye and turned 90 degrees in the middle of the shoot. Not very appealing to the eyes. My 2nd and 3rd attempt turned out much better. Here they are with the specs of the shoot.
As you can see, I had to move from one side of the sidewalk to the other because the bossman, Bryan Maslin, was shooting another timelapse. That made for a very shaky move. You'll also see in the next video that it got a little shaky again. I went from one straight line to another that was about 20 feet away.
Tip 2: Aperture Priority For Changing Exposure
I used Aperture Priority because I wanted to expose correctly in the dark and once the sun came up. I ended up getting a glitchy kind of flicker. After a little research, I came across Flicker Free from DigitalAnarchy.com which is a plug-in for editing software. I downloaded the free version to try it out and it worked great! $150 if you decide to purchase it.
While shooting, you need to keep an object in your frame and in the same spot. This can be done by framing an object on the grid in your viewfinder, then keep that object in the same spot for each picture you take. Once I got to middle of this shot, the fence covered the point of interest that I was tracking so I had to estimate where it was. I ended up creating a new POI which resulted in a little bit of shaky video.